How to Get to Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas
Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide
Cabo de la Vela is in the northeast corner of Colombia, in The Department of La Guajira. Only a half day’s worth of travel from Colombia’s popular coastal towns: Cartagena, Santa Marta, Palomino or anywhere else along the way.
Cabo might not seem too distant on a map but, don’t let that fool you. You might as well be entering a different world.
Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide is an adventure among adventures.
It’s a rough road to the coasts of Cabo and the Wayuu people that inhabit the lands. A population of people that have one of the roughest lives in South America.
Widely considered neglected by the government of Colombia it’s hard to imagine how the people have survived in the desert like region for so long. The entire region lacks running water, electricity and paved roads.
Yet, somehow they continue to smile. Seriously, the whole region is flooded with pearly white teethed grinning faces. Their hospitality can be blinding. More than enough to lift the spirit of any passerby. They seem like such a happy people. It’s admirable to say the least.
Step 1: Santa Marta to Cuatro Vias
Santa Marta (or anywhere along the coast) to Cuatro Vias. From wherever you are along the coast you need to board a bus headed for Maicao, that’s the last major town before crossing over into Venezuela. You won’t take the bus to the final stop.
Make sure you tell the driver you’re going to Cuatro Vias
Cuatro Vias or “four ways” is a popular cross road. The unofficial transportation site where you’ll need to board a colectivo headed north.
Santa Marta to Cuatro Vias, $25,000-$30,000COP (~$8-10USD). With stops our bus took roughly 4 hours to arrive.
Buses leave from all the major bus terminals along the coast. From Santa Marta’s bus terminal we took the 10am bus. This should be the latest bus you catch given the distance and potential colectivo breakdowns that frequent South America.
Need a place to stay in Santa Marta? Check out this post.
Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide : Cuatro Vias
Step 2: Cuarto Vias to Cabo de la Vela, DIRECTLY
Cuatro Vias is this dusty little intersection of road lined with a few makeshift shops and restaurants. It’s busy, rustic, and a little sketchy feeling but it’s as authentic as it gets. Here you’ll find colectivos (shared truck/van) lining the streets waiting for passengers to the smaller towns with no proper bus access. As soon as you step off the bus you’ll find screaming colectivo scouts ushering you towards your next ride.
Given the growing popularity of the region some local drivers have made a direct route from Cuarto Vias to Cabo.
I’m unsure about how frequent the direct route run. It is certainly subject to demand. When we arrived there were a few other people headed in the same direction. We were able to fill enough seats that we could go straight to Cabo. Cuatro Vias to Cabo de la Vela $35,000COP p/p (~$12USD). Although later we found out some of the other passengers paid $30,000COP.
It never hurts to put your bartering skills to work!
This leg of the adventure was about 2.5 hours. First along a paved road and the latter 2 hours along a bumpy dirt path.
If you luck out on the direct ride then you won’t need the rest of the information below. Although you should take a look at it anyways, just in case!
Step 3: Cuatro Vias to Uribia
If there is no direct colectivo available don’t worry, there is another suitable option.Take the truck headed for Uribia. It’s the last major town in the direction of Cabo. The direct colectivo rides pass right through here as well.
$10,000COP (~$3USD) for the 30 minute ride. You’ll be dropped off at another busy intersection. Quite similar to Cuatro Vias. Here you can transfer to another van headed for Cabo.
The difference in stopping here is that many people from Cabo come to Uribia for work. The colectivos here fill up much faster and more frequently than the direct ones from Cuatro Vias. Colectivos have no set schedule. They leave when the minimum requirement of seats are filled.
If it’s a slow day at Cuatro Vias then chances are you’ll have to take this route.
Step 4: Uribia to Cabo de la Vela
This leg of the adventure takes about 1.5-2 hours along a dusty and very bumpy road.
$20,000COP (~$7USD) is the going rate. The ride is uncomfortable, and don’t expect too much “personal space”. Instead embrace the experience and live in the moment :).
Cabo de la Vela
Once you arrive the transportation will drop you off right in the middle of the town. I use the term “town” loosely.The inhabited part of Cabo is literally two long roads lining the beach. All the accommodations, restaurants and shops are along the main road. The second road is all small homes, impossible for you to get lost.
Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide : Cabo’s Main Beach
Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide : Cabo’s Main Road
Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide : See those electricity poles? Wondering why the town still has no permanent electricity? Locals say it was an abandoned government project where the funds disappeared.
Punta Gallinas
If you’ve come this far then you should absolutely continue on to Punta Gallinas, the northernmost tip of South America. Once in Cabo you can hire a local driver to take you on the 3 hour ride.
The going rate is $150,000COP ($50USD) p/p. As a newly formed group of 4, we paid $120,000COP ($40USD) p/p.
This included transportation from Cabo to Punta Gallinas, returning to Uribia.
A short boat trip across the channel.
A visit to three sites around Punta Gallinas.
Cabo and Punta Gallinas are NOT one in the same. If Cabo is another world then prepare for Punta Gallinas to be another galaxy.
Tips
- EVERYTHING in Cabo is sold in cash! The last ATM is in Uribia.
- Bring as much water and snacks as you can carry from Uribia. The prices are higher in Cabo.
- Protect yourself from the sun. Hat, sunscreen and sunglasses are recommended. The sun in this region can be unforgiving.
Safety
I was a bit nervous traveling to Cabo. I had heard a story back in Medellin from a Venezuelan that this region was too dangerous to visit.
His story went as far as saying the government had warned against stopping your car in the region until you get to wherever you’re going. He described robbery after robbery in the region.
A fear stemming from the local people’s struggle with the government for opportunity and aid in their region.
None of this is true in my own experiences. The region and its people are beautiful. In addition I haven’t heard a single bad experiences from any traveler that has actually been there and seen it with their own eyes.
If you’re on the fence about it. My advice is to just go for it!!!
Afterthoughts: Cabo de la Vela & Punta Gallinas Without Guide
I strongly recommend you doing the route on your own vs an organized tour. It’ll save you a huge chunk of money plus getting there is half of the adventure!!!
The region, its people and their culture is among the most beautiful in all of the country.
It’ll be one of those stories you’ll pass down through the generations around the campfire.
