Carnaval de Barranquilla
Carnaval de Barranquilla
Carnaval was a spur of the moment thing. I never planned on going, I wasn’t even supposed to be on the continent during the celebrations.
My year long South America adventure was nearing its end. The idea of going back home was bitter-sweet. On one hand I missed my friends and family. On the other hand I had a whole new array of friends, some I would even consider family.
Turns out not all of life’s lessons can be learned in a classroom.
Anyhow…
The idea of attending one of South America’s biggest celebrations was hot on everyone’s mind. It’s all people were talking about. Everywhere you went people were selling carnaval memorabilia.
The seed was planted.
And the final decision came after a serious audit of my financial books.
I mean, South America is pretty affordable as far as backpacking goes but by this time my bank account had seen better days.
I was 50/50.
In the end I calculate costs and figure I can make it if my diet for the next few weeks consist of solely empanadas and local beer.
No big deal right?! I really do love empanadas!
Where to Stay
Now the mad dash to find a place to stay. Barranquilla is a huge city. It’s not really a place where you can pitch your tent wherever you please. Carnaval is so popular that many people book accommodations up to a year in advance!
Believe it or not there are only two hostels! The city is not really set up for tourism. Turns out no one really goes to Barranquilla aside from Carnaval times!
You’ll have a few overpriced hotels to choose from or my recommendation, Airbnb.
The local economy takes advantage of the lack of accommodations in the city and takes the opportunity to rent out their homes.
My home for the week, a family house turned backpacker playground. Equipped with tent spaces, hammocks and air beds.
Not a bad find two weeks before the celebration starts.
For locals Carnaval de Barranquilla last for weeks leading up to Ash Wednesday. As far as any visitor is concerned the main celebration takes place on the four days prior to Ash Wednesday.
Batalla de Flores
Otherwise known as The Battle of the Flowers is the main event of the festivities.
In order to take full advantage of the day our AirBnb group made up of travelers from all over the world set off with a 7am wake up call.
We head over to Route 40 in a trance like state, wiping the cold from our eyes.
Is it worth it?
In hindsight, absolutely!
It’s not everyday that you’ll be able to attend the world’s second largest carnaval.
Getting out the door by 7am is important to get a good seat. We arrive and agree on front row street levels seats under a covering.
Tickets are fully negotiable, we agree on $60,000COP ($20USD). Sounds a bit pricey but consider that these are front row seats on the most popular day of Carnaval de Barranquilla it’s a good deal.
Today’s show will be the biggest, all the motorized floats and craziest costumes will be in full effect!
I’ll let the photos speak for themself…
USA President Obama Even Came!
Along with Donald Trump
Gran Parada de Tradición y Folclore
Day 2 is much less crowded, and much lighter on your wallet. Turns out Sunday’s parade is mostly the costumes from the main event the prior year.
Less people means more leeway with ticket prices. Our group scores the same front row seats as yesterday. $15,000COP ($5USD).
Many locals skip out on the day, half still hungover from the night before and the other half opting not to relive last year’s parade.
For foreigners it’s just as much fun as the previous day.
Carnaval de Barranquilla does not disappoint…
Gran Parada de Comparsas
Day 3 is the final day of the dancers and floats along Route 40. We score covered bleacher seats in a private site for $15,000COP ($5USD).
Complete with our own portable toilet, living in luxury today 🙂
Day 3 is probably the best kept secret of Carnaval de Barranquilla. This is the day where the most traditional dresses hit the street.
It’s the least crowded day, but arguably the most beautiful.
Take a look for yourselves…
Joselito se va con las Cenizas, Day 4
Jose Leaves with the Ashes.
The closing of Carnaval de Barranquilla is a touch confusing to say the least.
In a quick overview this day is about the burial of Jose. The folklore character that symbolizes the end of carnaval.
The characters dressed as widows walk through the road coffin in tow. People say goodbye to their favorite time of year.
The same character will revive at the start of next year’s carnaval to symbolize the joyous time.
It’s a strange day to say the least. Many of the widows are men dressed as women and the day is truly a touch unorganized. Nonetheless it was worth it to experience the local tradition.
Where to Eat?
Carnaval de Barranquilla brings the street vendors out in full force! Let the food come to you!
After Parties
The four day celebration doesn’t skip a beat! If you’re up for it you won’t get more than a few hours of sleep. Every night the parties spill out into the streets!
Carrera 50 hosts a huge outdoor party known as Baila la Calle, arguably the most popular nighttime event of Carnaval de Barranquilla.
People from all over the world dance the night away in front of live music and huge jumbo screens.
Tourists are plagued with flour and silly string by the locals. Grab your own silly string and get your revenge!
It’s all in good fun. Carnaval de Barranquilla is all smiles 🙂
Watch out for elephants 🙂
Foam fights get pretty hectic 🙂
Tips & Safety
- If you’ve waited to the last minute to find accommodations check out couchsurfing.com. This is a site that hooks travelers up with locals that have extra space in their homes. In theory this is a free place to stay. Most people consider it a cultural exchange.*Take note that a some of the Barranquilla profiles during this time were asking for “donations”. Not true couchsurfing spirit, but if you waited until last minute you might not have another choice.
- Pick up your memorabilia along the market streets in the downtown. You’ll pay less than half of what they are charging at the parade.
- DON’T buy your tickets in advance! Don’t buy your tickets in a bundle!Some of the 3 day bundles were going for crazy prices. Your best bet it to buy tickets on a daily basis right there at the gate. Remember Saturday is the main event and will have the highest prices. Sunday and Monday will have prices as low as $5 for the same exact seats!
- When picking seats consider where the sun rises and where it will be at for most of the morning. Our group decided on seats in the sun for the morning that would leave us in the shade as the day continues on.
- Safety concerns go hand in hand with those of visiting any large cities. Don’t walk around flashing anything valuable. Watch out for pickpockets in crowded areas. During my time in Barranquilla I didn’t hear about any incidents with tourists. If you keep up your standard travel precautions you should be just fine.
Afterthoughts
Carnaval de Barranquilla was a blast! It is probably the ultimate farewell experience anyone could ask for. Truly the ultimate party to close out 13 months on such a beautiful continent.
If you have the slightest opportunity to experience the festivities, do it! Carnaval de Barranquilla will be one of those defining moments in your life. Days you’ll never forget.
Stories you’ll tell the grandkids one day.
Fuzzy nighttime group pics 🙂
