Comuna 13 Medellin
The death of Pablo Escobar was a day of celebration for some and a day of mourning for others. Many saw this Colombian drug lord as the ultimate villain, while others saw him as their Robin Hood. This is the story of a particular Colombian area known as Comuna 13 Medellin, a once forgotten section of Colombia.
Considering Escobar a villain or hero is up to personal opinion. But recognizing him as one of the most powerful Colombian figures of his time is plain fact. To understand the history it’s important to acknowledge the gaping power vacuum left in the wake of Escobar’s death. When a person of such power is displaced many groups spring up in hopes to step into that power void. This fight for power is exactly what happened in Comuna 13 Medellin.
Comuna 13 Medellin – Through the Eyes of a Young Local Woman
Laura, our guide from Comuna 13’s Walking Tour grew up right in the middle of the neighborhood. Her family knows first hand the chaos that unfolded. It all started with the death of Escobar. Up until then the neighborhood was largely considered safe for locals. This all changed after Escobar was gunned down in 1992. The locals were about to witness the biggest power vacuum of Colombia’s history. It’s largely accepted that no single person has had the amount of influence that Escobar single handedly wielded in Colombia. What happens when the undeniable authority of a violent organization is removed? In Comuna 13, this proved to be the beginning of their bloodiest time. An ongoing battle that would ensue between the government, the guerillas, cartel groups & the paramilitary for control. As Laura explains, Comuna 13 is an important and strategic location for illegal trade. The area gives entrance and exit to Medellin via the mountains, the common illegal trade route. This importance would be the root of the people’s suffering. Not unlike the suffering of local Africans in the blood diamond trade areas. Once again the land is to be exploited. In this case exploited only for its geographical location. Laura explains that the situation at one point so dire that people would wear white shirts in hopes of being viewed as innocents hoping to make it to and from work safely.
Operation Orion
Comuna 13 Medellin was considered one of the most dangerous areas of Colombia. Following a decade of bloodshed between the groups fighting for control the government stepped in with Operation Orion in 2002. Laura re-accounts the day she looked outside her window and saw military helicopters flying and hearing the never ending sound of gunfire. The government was using ex members of the illegal groups to identify the houses that the groups occupied. The groups true to their nature fought with the government. Following the operation people from all sides lay dead in the street.
Aftermath of Operation Orion
There are some records of the death toll those days but Laura urges us to ignore them. It’s her accounting that would say the government reported the operation as a total victory neglecting the facts that civilians were killed in the crossfire. The government is said to have reported them as people that were “disappeared” at the hands of the illegal groups. Laura says this simply is not true. Many of these people died in the crossfire. In an attempt to save face the government officials neglected them in their accounting. Laura explains the situation: “could you imagine battling people that wear no uniform in a crowded city? How would you know who was your enemy and who was the average citizen”? The answers is you couldn’t.
Life in Comuna 13 Today
Today, life in Comuna 13 Medellin is all but unrecognizable to anyone that was around back then. It’s a community full of art, smiling faces, independent shops and the world’s only outdoor electrical stairs. Yeah, that’s right. The same kind of automatic stairs you find in shopping malls can be found here. See, Comuna 13 is built onto the side of a mountain leaving its streets intensely inclined. The roads only lead so far into the communities and from there people must walk. Or if they are lucky ride their motorcycles along the sidewalks. One day the government announced a social project for this community and an international company built the electrical stairs. This made the community much more accessible to the downtown, changing the lives of the locals. Some time passed and groups of curious tourists further changed Comuna 13 to the neighborhood that it is today. Their curiosity brought the opportunity for shops and restaurants. Locals capitalized on the demand and produced their own independent businesses. What was once a poor and forgotten community is now one of Medellin’s most thriving attractions. Laura explains that there are still small groups forcing store owners into paying protection fees. But, largely the people are happy and able to live their lives in relative safety.
Afterthoughts
I really enjoyed the area, the electric steps are both unique and a cool photo opt. However, Comuna 13’s history is what moves me the most. It’s far too common to watch the news about local groups being exploited across the world. Here is an example of one of those groups coming full circle and having their community back again. You can’t walk more than five feet without seeing a friendly smiling face. The local people genuinely are happy to share their community with curious visitors. Comuna 13 is a must-see if in Medellin.
Local Street Artist’s Gallery
How to Visit
- Zippy Tours – Free walking tour (tip based) Meeting outside The San Javier Metro Station. 1000, 1400 & 1700.
- Independently – Make your way to San Javier Metro Station, 2,300 COP (<$1USD). Transfer to one of the buses outside main gate labeled Escaleras Electricas 1,050 COP (<$0.50USD). Get off bus at last stop.
I highly recommend that you take the tour!!! The history of this place is what makes the stairs special. Sure, without a tour the shops are still nice and the view amazing but you miss out on Comuna 13’s incredible history.
Disclaimer: There are many theories, beliefs, accounts and recollections of Comuna 13 & Operation Orion. This post was written based on the examples and history I personally learned from my walking tour in Comuna 13.
