Quito
We arrived from Latacunga after a few hours and straight away took a cab to the old town where we would be staying. Right away the taxi driver tries to drive away without giving my change. I called to him and he made the notion with his hands as if to say he has no change. This is pretty much a constant among taxi drivers in South America but most of them at least say something before forcing you into giving them a tip. I can’t wholeheartedly say I think he earned that $2 tip but what’s done is done. All I could think is here we go again, another huge city where everyone is out to get the tourist.
Happily, over my week long stay Quito and its citizens proved me wrong. This is one of the rare times I can say I enjoyed a big city other than the one I lived in for most of my life. Quito is a super cool city lined North and South through a huge valley. The people largely are friendly and inviting. The city felt pretty safe in all the places that a visitor would probably find themselves. I’d welcome another opportunity to visit the Quito. Despite my general lack of love for giant metropolises.
Bit of History
Quito is the second largest city in Ecuador by population. It’s the nation’s capital and the highest official capital in the world at 2850 meters of altitude. Quito was founded by the Spanish in 1534 on the ruins of an Incan city. The Ecuadorian Independence War was fought during 1820 to 1822 which ultimately lead to Ecuador’s liberation from Spain.
Best in and around Quito
- Intinan Museum – $4 with necessary guide. This place is just a few hundred meters from the original mitad del mundo site. With the newer technology officials marked this site as being the true equator line. Complete with replicas of past civilizations, shrunken heads, altered gravity games and a chocolate shop. This is the better of the two equator sites and my favorite place in Quito.
- Mitad del Mundo – $7.50 for full entry. This site was originally founded by French with older equipment. It’s without a doubt the more grand of the two sites. But new gps technology shows that the equator is a few hundred meters from this monument. I didn’t personally go inside this one but from the front gate it’s packed with tourist while the true site waits virtually empty (Intinan Museum).
- Free Walking Tour– tip based. I’m usually not a huge fan of walking tours but Community Hostel has taken their tour up a notch. Their guides are incredibly knowledgeable of the city. If you’re short on time, traveling alone or just want a bit of information to go along with your sightseeing then look no further. Monday through Saturday 1030 & 1430. (However, if you’d rather explore on your own go to the tourist information center in the bus terminal or downtown. You can get a map with marked routes showing you where the main attractions are located).
- Volcan Cotopaxi (read guide here) – this is the world’s highest active volcano. A short bus ride from Quito on the way to Latacunga. It’s a highlight for many people traveling through Ecuador.
- Otavalo Market (check out guide here)– this is a huge market north of Quito. Arguably one of the largest in all of South America.
- Changing of the Guard – this occurs every Monday at the main square in old town. It’s a small but crowded celebration of the country’s president. Some drills are performed with the soldiers and some horses. The president will come out to greet bystanders from the balcony. It’s an enjoyable morning and a prime display of how proud the Ecuadorians are. The Monday morning walking tour will include this event.
- Basilica del Voto Nacional. There are two different entrances both requiring separate fees. I recommend going into the front entrance which really looks like it’s the side entrance, just ask the workers for the entrance to the towers to make sure. Climb up to the top of the towers and treat yourself to an amazing view of the city. Try to time your visit for the sunset. $2 for the tower entrance. I believe it’s the same cost to enter the lower section of the church but note that you can look down into the section from above.
- Volcan Pichincha – Around $7-8. Visitors that don’t want to travel to Cotopaxi are in luck Quito has its own resident volcano. Visitors can take the cable car up to get a good view of the city. There are also some trails atop the volcano if you’re up for it! This being my last stop in Ecuador and having visited Cotopaxi I was a little over the idea of volcanoes. You can more or less assume every mountain or hill you see in Ecuador is a volcano! Well, maybe that’s a bit of an exaggeration but really volcanoes are everywhere here!
- La Mariscal – this is one of two popular tourist area of Quito. (The other being the old city). Jam packed with trendy bars, restaurants and cafes. I didn’t actually visit myself after learning about its nickname “Gringolandia” but I think I can imagine exactly what it would have been like.
Accommodations
- Hotel Juana de Arco – (top pick) located in a perfect location in the old city just along one of the main plazas. Private rooms start at $11 for singles or $15 for doubles. Including a far above average breakfast and lovely staff. Make sure to ask for one of the rooms facing the outside. The inner rooms have no windows and give a dungeon like feel. Also note there aren’t really any common areas so this place might not be best for someone looking to meet a lot of people in the hotel.
- Secret Garden – dorms starting at $10. This is arguably the most social backpacker hostel in Quito. They have a nice bar with an amazing city view. It’s a good option if traveling solo or if you like staying in very social environments. If you stay elsewhere I still recommend coming to grab a beer and watching the sunset on their deck.
Food
- Chifa Lin – just next door to Hotel Juana de Arco along Plaza Santo Domingo you’ll find some of the best Chifa in South America. I originally ate here because it was the only thing open late on a Monday night, but I never ate at another restaurant in Quito following the first meal.
- Supermarkets – the city has plenty of supermarkets if you’d rather cook yourself.
Safety
- Another reason to take the free walking tour is that the guide will go into detail about which neighborhoods and sites to avoid. Some are best left avoided altogether while others are pleasant enough during the daytime. Personally, I never felt unsafe in Quito. The two most tourist friendly areas are the old city and La Mariscal. Like always traveling with a bit of common sense will go a long way in your personal safety.
Afterthoughts
I really enjoyed wandering around Quito, it’s one of the few larger cities that I didn’t feel like running away from after the first few minutes. The Intinan Museum is the single best attraction in Quito. Although, the entire city has much to offer the curious visitor.
