7 Reasons to Visit Capurgana

To Visit Capurgana…or not to Visit Capurgana?

This is one of those places you rarely hear about. Just far enough out of the way that most travelers scratch the village off of the “to do list”.

But, just close enough to consider lacing up your boots and starting out on the adventure.

Sure, it’s a little inconvenient and quite possibly out of the question for anyone that catches seasickness easily.

But…..if off the beaten path is your style, you’re in for a beautiful adventure.

Capurgana

This is a tiny little town close to the border of Colombia & Panama. The coastal area can only be reached by boat or the very rare flight.

In fact, this beach destination has only recently acquired its first truck, the only vehicle of its kind in the region.

How to Arrive

Arriving to Capurgana is usually from Cartagena, Medellin or as a stop over during the Panamanian land/sea border crossing. Stay tuned for my arrival guide.

The Beautiful Madness

As the boat nears the coast shades of blue and green come into focus. The blue sea smashes against the rocks as the green jungle climbs the mountain side.

It’s a beautiful paradise, just beyond the arm’s reach.

As the boat docks we line up to gather our belongings and just like that our paradise is gone just as fast as it appeared…

Similar to many other parts of South America hostel/hotel scouts surround the new arrivals and offer their best sales pitch. Screaming and waving their hands in hopes of catching one of our eyes.

It’s chaotic, yet welcoming in its own right.

Just another reminder that this is Colombia, and this is part of the way of life here.

Where to Stay

One can walk through Capurgana in no time and all. The main village is made up of just a few streets.

If you find yourself visiting during December then you should make a reservation in advance! December is the busiest time for domestic Colombian travel and tiny Capurgana will be crowded.

Any other month of the year you should have no problem finding accommodations after arrival.

I recommend Hostel Capurgana $30,000COP ($10USD) for a dorm bed.

Check out Black & White Campground for tent spaces $5,000COP ($2USD) & hammocks

7 Reasons to Visit Capurgana

In no particular order 🙂

This is one of those places that you could really put your feet up and stay a while.

I recommend a minimum of 3 days. Although, I stayed 8 and only left because of Carnaval de Barranquilla (Read survival guide here!).

#1 Piscina de los Dioses & Playa Capurgana

If everything goes as planned you’ll arrive late morning/early afternoon. Drop your bags off and head out along the beach. Continue north of the boating dock on the coast following the painted arrows.

Eventually you’ll come to the “Pool of the Gods”.

Hang out for as long as you’d like.

If you continue up the trail you’ll come to a “natural pool”. It really didn’t look too exciting, but the trail scenery is beautiful.

Eventually, turn back around and head back into town. Spend the rest of the day with your toes in the sand at Playa Capurgana

#2 Hike to Sapzurro

Just after sunrise while the air is still cool head out towards Panama. Be sure to make some noise along the trail to scare away the snakes.

The trail is a bit rough, but should be getting easier with the wooden stairs & bridges being built.

There’s a $2,000COP (<$1USD) fee to access the trail but no one was there to collect when I arrived.

Atop the peak of the trail is one of the best view in the region of both small towns.

Don’t forget to detour to the waterfall just before you reach Sapzurro.

If you don’t like the idea of hiking back, then you can catch a boat ride back for a few dollars.

#3 South / Central America Gateway

I overheard a tour guide telling his group that this is one of the most significant borders in South America. Where South America meets Central America.

As I am about to leave South America I couldn’t help but feel excited for the milestone. Even if I’d be returning only a few hours later 🙂

#4 La Miel & Playa Blanca

Just over the ridge from Sapzurro and through the gateway you’ll find one of Panama’s beaches.

It’s beautiful, full of palm trees and coconuts line the sand.

Every local along the way says this is the best beach in the region.

It was nice and all but I never quite got over how much trash was floating in the sea here. Instead I found myself exploring the “Duty Free” shop and taking a nap in the sand.

Make sure to bring your passport. The border patrol will sign your information into their book.

*You will NOT get a passport stamp. This will not count as a renewal to your Colombian entrance.

#5 El Cielo

“The Heaven”

Start out walking along the right hand side of the air strip in Capurgana. It’s pretty much a straight route. Follow the occasional hand painted sign.

Leave out as early as you can to beat the heat. This is an easy, flat walk.

You’ll have to cross a few ankle deep streams.

As you walk further from the beach the hostels and restaurants will start to fade and you’ll get a first hand glimpse at how the locals outside of tourism live.

It’s a stark comparison to what most traveling westerners would call home.

Eventually you’ll come to El Cielo, a nature reserve carved right into The Darien.

Entrance is $2,000 or $3,000COP ($1USD).

*TIP

If you arrive early enough climb the steps to the top and listen out for the monkeys howling in the distance.

#6 Hike to Bahia Aguacate

Start out along the left of the airstrip, make sure to ask for directions. You’ll need to make a left but there is no sign marking the road.

Fifteen minutes into the walk and I was offered a tuk-tuk ride.

I jumped in and we were off! This must have been one of the bumpest rides of my life!

But one I will not soon forget.

My new friend and I arrive to a fork in the road, it’s time to say goodbye.

Once again, I’m powered only by the strength of my legs. With my head still spinning from the bumps, I gladly accept the walk.

The trail to Aquacate takes you along the southern coast, up and over a few mountainsides and finally to an avocado colored bay.

Have you ever heard the saying “it’s about the journey, not the destination”?

Well, this place is a prime example of the saying come to life.

Don’t get me wrong, the bay is pretty and all. But nothing too special in my opinion. The true beauty of this leg of the adventure is the trail.

I think you’d be very disappointed if you caught the boat to the bay. But the views along the coast reward you tenfold.

#7 Diving in Capurgana

You can’t visit Capurgana without a bit of diving, experienced or not…

There are 3 dive centers in the area. The most popular being Dive Green.

Capurgana diving is far from world class, but it’s fun and not super expensive.

Sharks are known to frequent the area. Avoid diving around January-February. This time of year the visibility is less than ideal.

Where to Eat

You can find cheap eats all around the futbol field. Surprisingly, there is not much seafood on the menu. The fish that is available is twice as expensive as the rest of the menu.

Turns out most of the fishmen have exchanged their fishing nets for tourism jobs.

Tips & Advice

• Avoid the high seasons! Most notably December. Capurgana is tiny and the beach will be full.
• Bring all the cash you’ll need! Only a handful of places accept cards. There are no banks or ATMS!
• Book your return boat tickets the day before or risk being stuck an extra day.

Afterthoughts

Capurgana is my favorite place in Colombia. In all honestly looking back at my 13 months, it’s one of my favorite places on the continent.

We are all in search of our own paradise.

You know, that place that you could live happily ever after…

I haven’t quite found mine yet, but Capurgana is as close as I have found to date.

If you’re looking for a place to kick your feet up and unwind then look no further!

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